Best Muscle Cars
Find Of The Day: 1968 Ford Mustang Fastback
By David Ashton
One things for sure about this 1968 Ford Mustang fastback, you are provided with a lot of detail in the listing.
The car was in the ownership of the lady from 1978 to 2014 and hasn’t been driven from 19+ years.
The present owner says they’ve made a start to make it roadworthy, with it being driven sporadically for a year or so.
I guess that’s why it is listed as an (Almost) Barn Find, as the car has already been worked on.
The downside to this car is that it’s a six cylinder in the front has been damaged with the front fenders and hard being replaced with a not so great paint job. If this was rectified it would bring it back to being an all original vehicle. This could mean a complete respray.
The car does have its rough areas with very minor rust here and there, but there is enough detail here for you to make a decision of if this is worth the money.
Check out the full listing below and see what you think –
‘
Here we go:
1968 Ford Mustang Fastback. 6 cylinder. Manual (3-speed) transmission.
THIS CAR IS AS SOLID AS YOU CAN FIND OF THIS AGE.
Northwest car all of its life. This explains the solid condition of the car. I believe I’m the third owner. The previous owner was a lady who drove it basically to work and back. Because of the condition of the engine – and the car in general- this could mean that the true mileage is 40k and not 140k! But for the sake of transparency (and since I cannot verify this), I will say that it has 140k miles.
Manufactured in San Jose and sold in Seattle.
Same owner from 1978 to 2014! in Washington State. Not driven in 19 + years.
I purchased it at the end of 2014. Performed all the proper steps to re-start it and make it road-worthy (please see below). Started driving it in September 2015. “Daily” driver for about a year (although I work from home, so I only drive a couple of times a week).
Original paint from the windshield back. Still has some shine! (I was planning to paint the front the same color – Sunlit Gold Metallic – Y code), so I bought enough matched paint (in can) to do the front ½ of the car and to touch up the other areas (spray paint). The paint goes with the car.
The front fenders were replaced at some point (long long time ago) with OEM ones (by the painted part numbers underneath). Not sure why. They were painted (as was the hood) VERY VERY POORLY. The front half of the car has terrible paint. Before buying the car I looked and looked for signs of an accident and could not find any. Nothing on the frame, bumpers, anywhere. My best guess is that something might have fallen on top of the front of the car, and instead of fixing the fenders they were replaced. Again, the paint in the front half of the car is worthless. I thought I had pictures of the front of the car but I cannot find them now. I can e-mail if requested.
Original interior. Rear seat in excellent shape. Driver’s seat back has some split seams which I think can be repaired. No split seams on the seat bottom or on the passenger’s seat.
The sound of the doors closing is music to the ears.
All glass intact. There is a scratch on the windshield passenger’s side, which I think can be buffed out. Or you can replace the windshield when you replace the weather-stripping/gasket (which is necessary).
As expected for a car this age, all weather-stripping should be replaced.
Checked the cowl – the main culprit for rust on the floors (which you will find in 95% of classic Mustangs) – and they look fantastic. Please see pictures.
The carpet appears to be original. It does not have any tears. There is some fading; if you don’t want to replace it you could simply spray-dye it without removing it.
Original AM radio. WORKS great!
No rust on the underside! Only surface rust. I have owned 9 classic Mustangs, and by far this is the most solid of all of them. Please look at the pictures.
There are a couple of minor areas of rust by the plugs in the trunk. That’s it! There is some surface rust here and there.
There is generalized pitting/surface rust on the chrome and paint in the interior of the car.
The following items work as they should:
– > Hi/low beam headlights
– > Front interior lights
– > Turn signals (exterior and dash indicators). The turn signal lever returns as it should.
– > Wipers
– > Defroster fan
– > Seat Belts
– > Rear Air vents
– > Backup lights
– > Dash gauges (speedometer- very stable, odometer, oil pressure, temperature).
– > Door and trunk keys/locks
– > Cigarette lighter. (But the car has not been smoked in).
The following items work intermittently:
– > Need to wiggle headlight switch in order for the dash lights to work.
– > Emergency flasher (column switch). It worked for some time.
– > Fog lamps. Need to wiggle switch.
– > Side/light markers. I think they worked before.
– > Front seat latches need to be adjusted.
The following items DO NOT work:
> – > Quarter panel interior lights.
– > Fuel gauge. It worked before I replaced the tank. This means that the gauge and the cable are OK. Probably the culprit is the sender.
– > Brake light. I had to press the pedal very hard in order for them to work. This means that all the circuit is fine. I tried to adjust it but I over-compensated. Now they stay on. Haven’t had a chance to re-adjust. I simply disconnected the switch.
– > Defroster/air controls. The cables need to be oiled.
– > Horn.
ADDITIONAL NOTES:
– > The air cleaner assembly shown in the pictures is not the correct one. Before delivery of the car I will put the correct one on, but it needs to be sand-blasted and painted.
– > No rust under the battery tray! (Two other 68 Mustangs I had were completely rusted there).
– > The underside of the doors is very solid; only surface rust. Please see picture. (The other side is just as good).
– > The temperature gauge needle does not pass the ½ mark! Even in stop-go conditions in hot weather.
– > There is very little play on the steering wheel.
– > Fog lamps were added. Cleverly hidden behind the grille. They work and look great. Please see note about the switch.
– > Newer fuel tank (about 5 years old).
– > Original bumpers in very good shape.
– > The passenger door rattles when driving. Part of the weather-stripping (that needs to be replaced) is missing.
– > Kick panels have cracks.
– > Driver’s door and driver’s fender have minor dents. Please see pictures.
– > Windows roll up and down fine.
– > There is a small dent on the rear/quarter panel driver’s side. Poorly fixed with bondo (which is cracking by now). Please see pictures.
– > The hood and the passenger’s side fender are very straight. There are signs of some bondo used for smoothing them out. Not much though.
– > With the cold weather setting in the new carburetor started to get stuck open.
– > The original door tag is there.
– > The dash VIN plaque is there.
– > The ammeter gauge does not move. Obviously the alternator is charging the battery. Not sure why.
– > The parking brake handle is not the original.
– > The window regulator handles are from an older Mustang.
– > The transmission shifter handle is not the original. It is a little loose.
– > Shock absorbers should be replaced.
– > The latches/stops and the latch covers for the fold-down rear seat are missing.
– > There are a few trim screws missing here and there.
– > The headliner has one split seam. I think it can be fixed. I was planning to install an overhead console but never got around to it.
– > The muffler appears to be OK, but it is almost 50 years old!
– > The emblem on the gas tank cap is cracked. The cable is bent.
– > Mismatched touch-up paint was applied on the rear passenger quarter panel.
– > The fold-down rear seat carpet needs to be replaced. Dye won’t do
– > There is a 1” or so crack on the fiberglass rear quarter panel (interior). Please see pictures.
– > The sun visors are there, but the seams on one are coming apart.
– > One of the outside moldings/quarter panel caps is dented. Just the molding. Also one of the rocker panel moldings has a dent.
– > Dash trim is original and shows its age.
– > The defroster hoses were loose. I tried to re-attach them and I damaged them. They should be replaced.
– > Windshield wiper switch knob is missing.
– > Rearview mirror needs to be re-attached to the windshield.
– > There are no cracks on the dash pad but it’s a little warped.
– > I did not need to do any work on the clutch. Perhaps should be checked. It shifts perfectly fine but the pedal does not return all the way.
– > Clear Oregon title in my name.
I did the following to get the car road-worthy:
– > Added oil to lubricate the pistons prior to cranking the engine up.
– > Cleaned and re-packed front wheel bearings
– > Replaced all brake cylinders (wheels and master). New
– > Replaced all brake hoses. New
– > Replaced the wheels and tires. Wheels have some surface rust. Tires have about 65% tread left. The original wheels go with the car (if so desired).
– > Replaced fuel tank (it’s about 5 years old).
– > Replaced fuel line (tank to pump). New
– > Replaced fuel pump. New
– > Changed oil and filter 3 times.
– > Flushed radiator.
– > Replaced radiator hoses. New
– > Replaced spark plugs, distributor rotor and cap, points. New.
– > Replaced fan belt. New
– > Replaced air filter.
– > Haven’t checked the rear bearings/differential oil. The car whines a little bit.
– > Replaced battery cables. New.
– > Replaced carburetor. New. Needs adjusting (sometimes it hesitates).
The door tag is decoded as follows:
63A Standard Interior
Y Sunlit Gold Metallic
2A Black crinkle vinyl
23B 23 February
74 Seattle DSO
6 3.20:1
1 3-speed manual’
More Muscle Cars For Sale – http://fastmusclecar.com/muscle-car-for-sale/
2 Comments